A table in the middle of clattering service, the smell drifting out of the kitchen, the last clinks of finished plates — Devran Döner Gökhan Usta in Kaman adds its own note to that restaurant hum, whatever that note turns out to be. Early hours tend to suit a quiet conversation; peak hours, when there are any, put you right in the middle of the noise. The mood shifts depending on when you walk in.